![]() Here's my take on drywall vs skim vs full update. Our ceilings are also textured and we'd like to smooth them out, but I feel better about throwing drywall up over the plaster there. Which should I do, and what are the relative pros and cons of each? Something about putting the drywall over the plaster makes me uneasy. This is somewhat related to this question but rather than being a single crack we're talking about most of the walls in a 1400 sq ft home, built in 1925. In addition we are going to be doing quite a bit of rewiring (removing knob and tube) and there are plenty of places where the plaster is cracking, so there is some repair work to be done beyond just skim coating the plaster in places. He also thought it'd be cheaper and quicker to do so. We originally wanted to skim coat the walls to smooth them out, but a contractor suggested that we could put up drywall over it instead since we have some room to give on our baseboards and trim. Tip #2 – I put a 4′ handle on my roller and wiping trowel – it allows me to never need any kind of ladder or scaffolding.Our new house has textured plaster walls that my wife and I don't like. You will have a visible “coat line” between the corner coat and the first coat in the field of the wall or ceiling – but a damp sponge or 220 drywall sandpaper will easily get rid of that. ![]() It establishes a “ground” to wipe against for your “field” coat, and it allows you to not have to roll so tightly into the corners. One tip for everyone – I’ve found it helpful to do all the edges first one coat in a separate operation. I’ve always used a flexible blue steel “wiping” trowel – but I ordered the Bon squeegee trowels (18 and 22 – no doubt one will do better than the other and we’ll wind up with a preference we don’t have currently LOL). I’m helping my daughter and husband reno a fixer-upper and was looking for this exact tutorial. I’ve lost track of how many 100,000 SF of skimming old walls I’ve done this way. This is exactly how the ‘pros’ do a level 5 drywall finish… roll on, trowel off. If it does end up too runny, add more dry mix. If you’re using ready mix mud, add a little water at a time so you don’t end up making it too runny. Most importantly, make sure there aren’t any lumps. You may have to play around with it until you get the “just right” consistency. It’s got to be thin enough for you to smooth it on the wall but not so thin that it just drips and dribbles down the wall. Use a a mixing attachment for your drill to mix the joint compound to the consistency of thick pancake batter. ![]() You still need the 5 gallon bucket which runs about $4-5. If you’re doing a LOT of skim coating, dry is probably a cost effective option. You can get about 4 times the coverage with dry mix mud. It costs about $15 for a 5 gallon bucket. If you’re doing a small area where you’ll only need one bucket, I’d choose a ready mix joint compound. spray bottle with water to thin you joint compound.Paint tray, mud pan, or 5 gallon bucket.Also remove outlet and switch covers and tape off all outlets to keep drywall cement out of them. It will be way less work to reinstall them than try to work around them. If you just jump in and start skim coating, you’ll probably end up cleaning drywall dust out of every nook and cranny of your house for a few months. C over the floors, furniture, appliances, etc, and seal off the room you’re working on to contain the dust to that room. ![]() Maryville TN House Tour – Completed Roomsĭrywall work can get really messy so take a little time to prep your space before you start mixing your drywall compound.
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